THE PROS AND CONS OF SULPHATE-FREE SHAMPOO

These buzz words have been doing the rounds for the past few years and, if you have haven’t already jumped onto the sulphate-free train, now might be the time to consider  changing to a sulphate-free shampoo.

What does it mean?
Sulphates are ingredients that create the foam that we all so love to see when we wash our hair,  you don’t just find them in shampoo. They’re in everything from facial wash and shower gel to common household cleaning products – one of the reasons they’ve gained such a bad reputation.

Sulphates have a  tendency to strip hair of its good (natural)  oils, as well as the bad ones you are trying to remove by washing. And when you consider the thousands of chemicals  in the products we use daily – from our toothpaste to our night cream – it’s not surprising we’re looking for products with gentler ingredients.

The Good
If you suffer  from allergies,  skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis or general reactions to products( which I unfortunately do) then you should seriously  consider switching to sulphate-free shampoos. They’re gentler on the scalp and therefore less likely to cause any irritation.

They’re also better options to use when caring for hair after chemical treatments as well as ensuring that colour lasts longer.

The Bad
Sulphate free shampoo’s generally tend to be more expensive than other shampoos. Because of this they are hard to come by, however with the natural hair revolution that is taking over they are a bit more accessible than having to purchase only online. In Harare try Venus Beauty Supply or Evenhand Cosmetics.

When it comes to washing you’ll also notice a difference in how the product spreads. Sulphate-free shampoos don’t lather as well as regular ones because they don’t contain the heavy surfactants which cause that foaming action we expect from shampoos. And if your hair is very long or prone to oiliness, you’ll probably find you need more product than usual. This doesn’t necessarily mean a shampoo with sulphates does a better job at cleansing; it simply foams better than those without them, which means it spreads faster and more easily.

Read your labels
Look out for sulphates in shampoos located in the ingredients list under the names sodium lauryl or laureth sulfate (SLS and SLES) and ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS). Try to find a shampoo that is both free from sulphates as well as sodium chloride, used to thicken shampoos. This is basically table salt and also damages hair .

The Beauties
Try some of our favourite sulphate-free shampoos: Nature's Gate, Dr Miracles Curl Care Range, Mark Anthony Strictly Curls.

HELP!!!! My Hair is not growing!

This is something i hear from my Naturalista Sister's who are starting out on the journey all the time.

Our hair at the very least grows at least half an inch in six weeks. Why then is your hair 'not growing?' The probable reason for this is that your hair is breaking as fast as it is growing and for you to see the growth you need to stop the breakage. What can be done to stop the breakage?

Since i went back to being natural (yes i went back to being Natural) i have discovered Deep Conditioning (DCing), what in Harare when you go into a salon is usually described as an Oil Treatment (OT) despite the fact that there is no oil used.

So, let's talk hair health with DEEP CONDITIONING. Deep Conditioning offers the hair loads of benefits.Along with that, Deep Conditioning your hair will provide the much needed nutrients to the hair follicle and allow the hair to shine and appear as healthy as possible as it has been hydrated and conditioned through the treatments which have been used in the hair.If your hair is damaged or feeling extremely dry, you can deep condition more often until it gets back to a healthier condition.  Generally speaking, any conditioner can be used as a deep conditioner although there many conditioners marketed for the purpose of deep conditioning the hair. The great thing about using a deep hair conditioner is that it gets the chance to be as effective as possible by being left on the hair longer and hopefully allowing heat to help it penetrate better.

Before I get into the wonderful benefits of Deep Conditioning, let me first cover who benefits most from Deep Conditioning.

Who Should Consider Deep Conditioning On A Regular Basis: (Weekly)

• Those who use styling products often. Styling products can cause buildup. Buildup prevents hair from looking it's best and can feel dull and lifeless. Due to product buildup, a clarifying cleanse is needed. This can strip the moisture from the hair. Deep Conditioning replenishes the hair with moisture. Products that contain harsh ingredients, such as harmful alcohols (not plant based), sulfates, synthetic fragrance robs the hair of its moisture, thereby causing the hair to feel dry.
• Individuals who use heat on a regular basis.
• Individuals who use chemical dyes, relaxers or other harsh treatments. Because these elements break down the molecular structure of the hair by first stripping the hair of all of its moisture, Deep Conditioning is of extreme importance.
• Those who apply micro braids and hair weaves. Deep Conditioning should be administered before the application of any of these styles, because these styles can leave the hair brittle and dry.
• Individuals who use shampoos that contain sulfates. Sulfates rob the hair of moisture.PERIOD. By applying a deep conditioning treatment, moisture is restored to the hair.

Benefits of DEEP CONDITIONING

• Deep Conditioning the hair provides a preventative measure to ensure that there is as little damage to the hair as possible through the style.

• Deep conditioning for 15-30 minutes or cover with your plastic cap and leave over night, using heat will definitely help with the healthiness of your hair.
• Using a deep conditioner on a regular basis can help your hair bounce back from dryness and damage.
• You hair's elasticity will improve because of the emollients and other moisturizing ingredients in the conditioner. 
• Other ingredients in the conditioner will help fill holes of damage that lead to poor porosity.

How To Deep Condition:

• Make sure you detangle your hair with a wide tooth comb before deep conditioning. 
• Pin your hair up or let it hang if short and add a plastic cap to keep your hair in place. 
• Sit under a warm hooded dryer for 30 minutes is one option.
• You can also just leave the conditioner on for about 30 minutes with the plastic cap and let your own body heat work its magic on your conditioner.
• Wet a face cloth and heat it up in the microwave for about 15-30 seconds, then apply to the top of your hair. Put on your plastic cap and leave on for 15 minutes.
• A quick and effective way of deep conditioning quickly is to put your plastic cap on while in the shower, then turn up the shower to the hottest you can stand to cause steam. Then bathe, scrub or whatever while the steam helps the conditioner penetrate your hair. In the time you finish, your hair will have deep conditioned nicely. I used to do this ALL the time!!

If you had not tried a deep condition, i hope i have convinced you to at least try one, i mean other than your hair what do you stand to lose right?

Next up Homemade Deep Conditioners.

Natural Hair 101

Afros are growing in popularity as more women become ‘naturalistas'. As much as going natural will be one of the best decisions you can make for the health of your hair, it can also be overwhelming. Don’t stress ladies, we’ve got some great tips to make it easier

When most of us think of natural hair, we immediately think shrinkage, dryness and blank frustrating stares into the mirror as we try to figure out what to do with our ‘fro today.

But having natural hair doesn’t need to be high maintenance or complicated if you take care of it correctly with a proper hair-care regimen.

1) What does natural hair need?

Moisture

Believe it or not ladies, water is not the enemy – your natural hair needs moisture to thrive.

It’s not water that damages your hair when you wash it – that’s caused by washing it too often and using the wrong products. It’s not advisable to wash your hair every day as this will strip away the natural oils and nutrients. Ideally wash your hair weekly using a sulphate-free shampoo. The second-best option after a weekly wash is to treat your hair daily with a water-based moisturiser and a light hair oil or food.

Conditioning

Don’t underestimate the power of regular conditioning. Not only does it make your hair soft and manageable, it also strengthens it.

There are three types of conditioners:

Instant Conditioners are rinse-out conditioners that are applied after you’ve shampooed your hair. Many are suitable for daily use and they moisturise the hair.

Leave-in conditioners can be applied after hair has been shampooed, but can also be used alone. They don’t need to be rinsed out. They are absorbed into the hair and repair split ends, detangle hair and protect it when heat is applied during styling.

Deep conditioners are intensive treatments designed to penetrate the hair to restore the balance of protein and moisture.

TIP: You should deep condition your hair at least once a month to keep it healthy. Your hair deserves the extra pampering. ( I deep condition every week and my hair loves me for it)

Heatless drying

Air drying your natural hair is the least-damaging way to dry it. Although using heat has its perks, the disadvantages outweigh the advantages. Hair that is regularly exposed to heat is prone to breakage, thinning and dryness and split ends that you will have to ultimately have to cut off thereby reducing your length if length retention is what you are about best stay away from the heat.

After washing your hair, let it air dry for about 10 minutes before applying products as some products hold in the moisture, which increases your drying time. Instead of using a towel to dry your hair, rather use an old 100%-cotton T-shirt to soak up the excess water. Cotton is soft and won’t cause as much friction and damage as a towel will. Then I suggest doing standing buns or twisting the hair and letting it dry on its own.

TIP: If you have to use heat on your hair, apply a heat protection serum while your hair is wet.

2) Ingredients/products to avoid:

Sulphates: Found in some shampoos, sulphates remove grease, dirt and oily build-up. However, sulphates are harsh on the hair as they remove natural oil, leaving hair dry and more prone to breakage. When choosing a shampoo, opt for one that’s sulphate-free.

Mineral oils/Petroleum: Found in hair oils, hair food and conditioners, mineral oils seal moisture into the hair and also give curls definition. The downfall is that they can accumulate on the hair and scalp, thereby attracting and holding dirt and residue. When this happens the hair follicles (pores) get clogged up, which slows down the rate at which your hair grows.

TIP: Rather use products with a base of natural oils such as Amla oil, caster oil, carrot oil or olive oil.

3) Healthy hair helpers:

Aunt Jackie’s Moisturising & Softening Conditioner, $14, is specifically formulated for natural hair. It deep conditions and moisturises hair, leaving your ‘fro hydrated and softer. Available from Venus Beauty Supply.

T444Z, $30, is a scalp-based stimulant that conditions and nourishes the scalp. It encourages thickness, volume and growth with ingredients such as castor oil, shea butter and Rosemary. Available from Evenhand Cosmetics

Amla Legend 1001 Oils Cream, $9 is an overnight cream that nourishes and softens hair. It contains Amla fruit and coconut oil which promote healthy strong hair. Available from Venus Beauty Supply

Twisted Sista Curl Activator, $14, is also specifically for natural hair and is designed to revive and give your afro the perfect curl definition. Venus Beauty Supply.

Curl Care by Dr Miracle’s Rehydrating Shampoo, $10, gently cleanses hair without stripping it of its natural oils. It’s sulphate-free and leaves your afro nourished.