Natural Hair in the Workplace.

In a few weeks time i am going to speaking at an event in Harare "Curls, Kinks and Fashion" so the facilitator has just asked me for a short description about myself and what i intend to speak on at the event as the "Curls & Kinks" part is obviously aimed at women with Natural Hair. On a whim i responded that i will tackle the subject of "Natural Hair in the Workplace."

Before i actually said that i hadn't really stopped to think about Natural Hair in the workplace but now that I have, I will share my experiences.

We see Natural hair everywhere these days, our celebrities wear it with pride both locally and internationally, Shingai Shoniwa, Dephne Madyara, Prudence Katomeni Mbofana, Pearl Thusi, Solange Knowles, Viola Davies the list is endless, you would expect that it is widely accepted that Natural Hair is here and it is here to stay... but alas.

When I wear my natural hair to work whether in a fro, or twist out, the first people i get disapproving looks from are my 'brother's and sister's' from another mother, and i think to myself how is that even remotely possible? What is it with the straight hair mentality that has people thinking that once you show your curl pattern they have the right to turn their nose up at you. So yes i often get told that i need to make a 'plan' about my hair. What plan should i make, how has my hair offended you? Am i not being productive with my hair in a fro? Is my hair really that unprofessional? Who then deems what is professional and what isn't?

Because of my hairstyles I am often viewed as being a hippy or eccentric and am sure people half expect me to be high on weed half my life. But i am not a hippy, i have been very fortunate enough to stay clear of weed and any other dangerous narcotics, so please with all due respect if i don't judge you based on your hair, don't judge me on mine.

What i boils down to is that society must accept that Naturalista's are so much more than just their hair and to recognise and understand why we choose to wear our hair the way we do.

As I said earlier this type of reaction i face mainly from other men and women of colour that i work with. The exact opposite is true of my Caucasian colleagues, the lady that i share an office with loves that i am able to wear my natural hair, she is amazed by the versatility of my natural hair. 

Its a saddening reality i think.

End of rant. Disclaimer these are my views and perceptions and mine alone we all have different stories to tell I just put mine out there.

Length Check 1,2

Since i started my HHJ it has always been more of an issue of Healthy Hair over the length of the hair. There are some people out there who will have BSL (Bra Strap Length) hair but they have more split ends than is allowable in the Natural Hair Community.

So yeah now that i think my hair regime has resulted in the healthiest hair that i can possibly achieve i am starting to look at the length aspect. I reckon i am grazing shoulder length in a blow dried state, i am looking to achieve that same shoulder length with no heat.

In a previous post (Help!!!! My Hair is not growing!) I have attempted to highlight that all hair grows at least on average 1/2 an inch every month but its how you treat your hair that determines how much you will retain.

Different strokes for different folks, some people will swear by hair vitamins such as Hairfinity and  Nutrivites, while others will cut their hair according to phases of the moon.

This is how i plan on achieving growth.

1.   Follow a Healthy Lifestyle

In as much as what we eat and drink and how we generally take care of our bodies affects our skin, its a ripple effect and it actually affects our hair as well. A person needs to eat enough fresh fruit and vegetables, drink enough  water and exercise regularly for overall body health. And since it follows that hair grows directly from the body, when you treat your body well your Hair, Skin and nails will benefit too. Vitamin deficiencies and unhealthy diets can cause dry and brittle hair.

2.   Low Manipulation Styles

I am also going to try and incorporate hair styles that involve as little as possible manipulation of my hair and if possible try and minimise the use of my beloved afro comb :-(.

3.  Protective Styling

I am planning on evaluating my length 3 months from now (end of June 2015) so the time in between I will have to overcome the temptation to show off my hair by keeping my hair in protective styles. Protective styles will help retain length (Protective styles keep your ends which are often the oldest and driest parts of your hair from rubbing against pillow cases, clothing and car seats) and by so doing also helps our hair retain moisture.

4.  Condition Condition Condition

I cannot stress the importance of regular deep conditioning on a regular basis for Natural Hair. Well moisturised hair is less prone to dryness and breakage which results in length retention.

Length Check 25.03.15

THE PROS AND CONS OF SULPHATE-FREE SHAMPOO

These buzz words have been doing the rounds for the past few years and, if you have haven’t already jumped onto the sulphate-free train, now might be the time to consider  changing to a sulphate-free shampoo.

What does it mean?
Sulphates are ingredients that create the foam that we all so love to see when we wash our hair,  you don’t just find them in shampoo. They’re in everything from facial wash and shower gel to common household cleaning products – one of the reasons they’ve gained such a bad reputation.

Sulphates have a  tendency to strip hair of its good (natural)  oils, as well as the bad ones you are trying to remove by washing. And when you consider the thousands of chemicals  in the products we use daily – from our toothpaste to our night cream – it’s not surprising we’re looking for products with gentler ingredients.

The Good
If you suffer  from allergies,  skin conditions like eczema and psoriasis or general reactions to products( which I unfortunately do) then you should seriously  consider switching to sulphate-free shampoos. They’re gentler on the scalp and therefore less likely to cause any irritation.

They’re also better options to use when caring for hair after chemical treatments as well as ensuring that colour lasts longer.

The Bad
Sulphate free shampoo’s generally tend to be more expensive than other shampoos. Because of this they are hard to come by, however with the natural hair revolution that is taking over they are a bit more accessible than having to purchase only online. In Harare try Venus Beauty Supply or Evenhand Cosmetics.

When it comes to washing you’ll also notice a difference in how the product spreads. Sulphate-free shampoos don’t lather as well as regular ones because they don’t contain the heavy surfactants which cause that foaming action we expect from shampoos. And if your hair is very long or prone to oiliness, you’ll probably find you need more product than usual. This doesn’t necessarily mean a shampoo with sulphates does a better job at cleansing; it simply foams better than those without them, which means it spreads faster and more easily.

Read your labels
Look out for sulphates in shampoos located in the ingredients list under the names sodium lauryl or laureth sulfate (SLS and SLES) and ammonium lauryl sulfate (ALS). Try to find a shampoo that is both free from sulphates as well as sodium chloride, used to thicken shampoos. This is basically table salt and also damages hair .

The Beauties
Try some of our favourite sulphate-free shampoos: Nature's Gate, Dr Miracles Curl Care Range, Mark Anthony Strictly Curls.

My Favourite Oil - Coconut Oil

Very few things in life get me as excited as a jar of coconut oil. No, not because I’m basic, but because this stuff is actually, really, really that good.

First thing I’m asked when I talk about this stuff is where do I buy it. Coconut oil is available at most Pharmacies though i doubt the pureness of it, Vitamin Bar health food stores such as ZimSpice . I buy my coconut oil at a Venus Beauty in Belgravia $18 for 500g

Second thing I’m asked is ‘is it supposed to be hard?’. Yes. It hardens in cooler temperatures. If you scoop out a little and rub it between your palms, it liquifies. During summer, it’s almost always liquid.

Why is coconut oil this amazing?

• Because it’s an oil, it can’t be classified as a moisturizer (like water), but it’s one of the best – if not the best! – natural oil for locking/ sealing moisture into your hair;
• Is your hair always mince-ing? Coconut oil is great at blocking moisture from the air from penetrating your hair, so your great style won’t be ruined by humidity or weather conditions;
• It makes your hair stronger because it can bind to your hair’s protein structure;
• If you use is BEFORE you wash your hair, in a pre-shampoo or hot oil treatment, it can help minismise the damage your hair potentially faces due all the manipulation and handling it goes through on wash day;
• If, like me, you’re dealing with porosity issues, this is the oil to use as a general all purpose oil.

How I use coconut oil: 

• Detangler: I’m one of those ridiculous people who dry finger detangles and this oil just makes my knots and tangled curls melt;
• Sealant: During summer, this is my go-to oil for sealing in moisture and doing the LOC method;
• Hot oil treatments and scalp massages: Due to my position as The World’s Laziest Natural, these don’t happen regularly, but, when they do, coconut oil features prominently;
• ‘Hair Food’: You know when you go get your hair braided and the stylist wants to reach for her mineral oil-laden hair food or Vaseline to base your scalp or help lubricate her hands to work faster? Hand her a jar of this stuff instead;
• Shine Serum: On the rare occasion that I’ve straightened my hair, I spread a few drops of this in my palms and smooth over my hair every day. Good at keeping flyaways at bay and adds shine without having to reach for a silicone-based product;
• Body Moisturiser: When your skin feels a bit meh, smooth some of this over it. Lavishness.
• Eye Make Up Remover: Because I’m addicted to cat eye liner, I’m constantly on the look out for ways to remove all the gunk without ripping my eyelids apart. This stuff is so good at removing eye make up without spending hours rubbing at your sensitive eye area.

HELP!!!! My Hair is not growing!

This is something i hear from my Naturalista Sister's who are starting out on the journey all the time.

Our hair at the very least grows at least half an inch in six weeks. Why then is your hair 'not growing?' The probable reason for this is that your hair is breaking as fast as it is growing and for you to see the growth you need to stop the breakage. What can be done to stop the breakage?

Since i went back to being natural (yes i went back to being Natural) i have discovered Deep Conditioning (DCing), what in Harare when you go into a salon is usually described as an Oil Treatment (OT) despite the fact that there is no oil used.

So, let's talk hair health with DEEP CONDITIONING. Deep Conditioning offers the hair loads of benefits.Along with that, Deep Conditioning your hair will provide the much needed nutrients to the hair follicle and allow the hair to shine and appear as healthy as possible as it has been hydrated and conditioned through the treatments which have been used in the hair.If your hair is damaged or feeling extremely dry, you can deep condition more often until it gets back to a healthier condition.  Generally speaking, any conditioner can be used as a deep conditioner although there many conditioners marketed for the purpose of deep conditioning the hair. The great thing about using a deep hair conditioner is that it gets the chance to be as effective as possible by being left on the hair longer and hopefully allowing heat to help it penetrate better.

Before I get into the wonderful benefits of Deep Conditioning, let me first cover who benefits most from Deep Conditioning.

Who Should Consider Deep Conditioning On A Regular Basis: (Weekly)

• Those who use styling products often. Styling products can cause buildup. Buildup prevents hair from looking it's best and can feel dull and lifeless. Due to product buildup, a clarifying cleanse is needed. This can strip the moisture from the hair. Deep Conditioning replenishes the hair with moisture. Products that contain harsh ingredients, such as harmful alcohols (not plant based), sulfates, synthetic fragrance robs the hair of its moisture, thereby causing the hair to feel dry.
• Individuals who use heat on a regular basis.
• Individuals who use chemical dyes, relaxers or other harsh treatments. Because these elements break down the molecular structure of the hair by first stripping the hair of all of its moisture, Deep Conditioning is of extreme importance.
• Those who apply micro braids and hair weaves. Deep Conditioning should be administered before the application of any of these styles, because these styles can leave the hair brittle and dry.
• Individuals who use shampoos that contain sulfates. Sulfates rob the hair of moisture.PERIOD. By applying a deep conditioning treatment, moisture is restored to the hair.

Benefits of DEEP CONDITIONING

• Deep Conditioning the hair provides a preventative measure to ensure that there is as little damage to the hair as possible through the style.

• Deep conditioning for 15-30 minutes or cover with your plastic cap and leave over night, using heat will definitely help with the healthiness of your hair.
• Using a deep conditioner on a regular basis can help your hair bounce back from dryness and damage.
• You hair's elasticity will improve because of the emollients and other moisturizing ingredients in the conditioner. 
• Other ingredients in the conditioner will help fill holes of damage that lead to poor porosity.

How To Deep Condition:

• Make sure you detangle your hair with a wide tooth comb before deep conditioning. 
• Pin your hair up or let it hang if short and add a plastic cap to keep your hair in place. 
• Sit under a warm hooded dryer for 30 minutes is one option.
• You can also just leave the conditioner on for about 30 minutes with the plastic cap and let your own body heat work its magic on your conditioner.
• Wet a face cloth and heat it up in the microwave for about 15-30 seconds, then apply to the top of your hair. Put on your plastic cap and leave on for 15 minutes.
• A quick and effective way of deep conditioning quickly is to put your plastic cap on while in the shower, then turn up the shower to the hottest you can stand to cause steam. Then bathe, scrub or whatever while the steam helps the conditioner penetrate your hair. In the time you finish, your hair will have deep conditioned nicely. I used to do this ALL the time!!

If you had not tried a deep condition, i hope i have convinced you to at least try one, i mean other than your hair what do you stand to lose right?

Next up Homemade Deep Conditioners.